Much Ado About Messina:48 Hours in Sicily
Messina is many things: the elegant backdrop to Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing, a former WWII strategic transit and supply point, a consistent punchline for politicians over a bridge that is still not bulit to the mainland, universities and a marine biology institute. I have always been curious about the city because of the play and I was craving a weekend trip that wasn’t over the top expensive. Most people go to Taormina, Siracusa or Palermo, but I just wanted something different. A few people reacted, “Why Messina” (when did everyone become Rick Steves?!) to which my reply for any new place is always, “Why not?”
Located in the Northeaster part of Sicily, Messina offers beaches, a charming downtown and great food. You will not see massive amounts of tourist traps or aggressive trinket sellers ( I am looking at you Capri!). It is the trip for those that want to experience Italy at a slower pace. And yes, you will need some patience, it is Southern Italy - things just run slower. I would fully recommend taking the time to visit. I went largely for the beach and the food. What else do you need?
Transport: Arrival is fairly simple. I took a flight from Rome Fiumicino to Catania Airport. There are many flights to Catania via ITA, Ryanair and EasyJet. Then I hopped on a bus directly to the city center. The SAIS Autobus offers service every half hour and it was 8,40 euro. Top! You can take the ferry, or the train, however both of these options will cost you in time - a train to Reggio Calabria from Rome is at least 5 hours, then you have to ferry. Plane + Bus = simplest bet.
Lodging: There is a large selection of hotels and airbnbs. Remember: this is a beach city and in the summer it can get packed. If you want to stay near the beach, look for something in or near Torre Faro. Plan ahead and budget accordingly. I went at the end of April which is warm enough to get in the water(just barely) but if you go July - August, the lodging will easily be trip the price, which is generally the case through Italy. I enjoyed a nice stay at Residence Acqua Conte which is walkable to the city center. And easily accesible by bus.
Intercity Transport: There is a bus system that works well. Takes you all the way to the beach if you want. It is a slower option, but you skip the car and take in a beautiful view of the coast on the way there.
Dress Code: Messina is fairly casual, so come as you are. It is a down to earth place. The city is filled with medical students, an elderly population, families and everything in between. The most important thing to prepare for summer or winter? The wind. It is a very windy place and I was caught wearing every layer in my carry on! Have a sweater or sweatshirt ready.
Food: Always the most important when I travel, Messina does not disappoint! Here is a quick list of places I tried, which is by no means comprehensive but frequented by locals, which is all the proof you need:
Arancini are a deep fried rice balls that have a crispy, breaded outside and are filled with rice and meat sauce. (Vegan ones exist, if you must) The name means little oranges, because of the color and shape, although many will have a large tear drop shape. My favorite is the arancino al ragù. La Rosticceria del F.lli Famulari is right in the city center and boasts over 50 different kinds. Like pokemon, collect them all ;)
Pitone is a delicate fried pastry that has savory filings. My favorite was potato and speck. The pastry itself is very simliar to that of a Samosa/Samusa, and it is served piping hot. There is a great spot in Torre Faro, Pitonera Portella. But you can find these all over Messina, and they are delicious.
Pizza: Yes, I live in Rome, and yes, the best pizza is from Napoli. But…. Il Datterino offers classic pizzas, pastas and clever creations. And it is pretty damn good. Even a dear friend from Napoli enjoys his pizza here, so that says something…so if you crave pizza, it is spot on.
Cannoli: This is probably one of the most famous things from Sicily. A hollow crispy pastry filled with ricotta cream, sugar, chocolate and pistachio. There are many varieties but the ricotta remains my favorite. I ended up getting my fix at the Catania airport at I Dolci di Agata. They even have the little icepacks ready if you want to take cannoli or cassata home. It is all very, very good. You will see a line!