Portofino Weekend: Posh vs Practical
Located in Northern Italy, Portofino is a fishing village in Liguria and renowed for the views of the sea, glamourous guests, pastel painted houses, seafood restaurants and luxury. Going for a weekend to this region does not mean a second mortgage on your home. There are manageable ways to visit and enjoy this postcard perfection for a weekend.
Where to stay:
Posh: There are hotels right in Portofino, notably the Splendido. It is as the name implies, this place is quite splendid with the best views of the area, but also a pretty penny per night. But if you want to splurge on life, this would be the place to exercise your right to go big.
Practical: Stay in Santa Marguerita Ligure, which has plenty of hotels at a lower price point. I stayed at the Blu di Te guest house that has a wonderful breakfast, rooftop pool deck and beautifully appointed rooms.
Transport:
Arrival: You can take a fast train (Frecciarossa) from Milan or Rome to Genoa and transfer to the regional line for Santa Marguerita Ligura (the Intercity lines also work well but note: it is half the price and double the time). The regional trains also stop in the different villages in Cinque Terre. Or you could take a boat…
Posh: You can hire a variety of private yachts and ferries to charter you around Cinque Terre and in between Portofino, and these can run a fee from 1100 - 2400 euros for a full day. I have seen some at 400-650 euro, but these book quickly so plan accordingly if the private yacht/boat situation is on your vision board.
Practical: A few options! From Santa Marguerita you can take the bus (82) for 3 euros to Portofino. Tickets can be purchased at the Tabacci(Tabacco shops with a blue sign with a T). You can also walk from Santa Marguerita and it is about an hour at a leisurly pace. This walk is quite pleasant, as you enjoy the view along the coast and most of it has a walkway except for right before you reach Portofino. Drivers there seem used to the runners and tourists so no worries there. Its not like playing Frogger. There is also a ferry that works as a sort of taxi, that can take you around the different villages for 5-18 euros depending on what stops you decide on.
Beaches:
Posh: Of course you will want to jump into this cool clear water at some point! Private beaches will cost more for rentals. There are quite a few such as Le Carillon in Paraggi on the way to Portofino with the towels, sunbeds and umbrella rented together (on sale is 100 euro/140 euro regular price).
Practical: There are many public beaches that share the same emerald water as the fancy places that you can easily access in the area. The public beaches are clearly marked and you can easily distinguish the difference because the private areas have rows of sunbeds and umbrellas. You will need your own towel and umbrella if you go to the public stretches. There are many in Santa Marguerita and Camogli. There are small private rentals for sunbeds and umbrellas and ranging from 12-25 euro for the day(book in advance for high season!) The vibe is super chill.
Nota Bene: The beaches here are not sand but pebble and rock, so if you have tender feet, I would highly recommend some sort of jelly or water shoe to navigate your way. Or enjoy the exfoliating effect on your feet!
Food: (the most important feature!)
Posh: Ahh…the restaurants are plentiful in the area and seafood lovers can rejoice. In Portofino, having just an espresso in the piazza overlooking the marina can cost 3.50 euro (to compare: in Rome you can get a coffee+cornetto for 2 euro) but if you just want to take in the view, why not? An aperol spritz at the Splendido can be 25 euro, but really here you are paying for the amazing view from the terrace. Tradeoffs :)
Practical: In Portofino itself, there is a lovely panifico (bakery) that makes some pretty mean stuff. Panifico Canale is just off the piazza and you will inhale anything that comes from here. Service can be abrupt but ignore it and order the onion or the classic foccacia.
In Santa Marguerita, there are a few places that I really enjoyed.
Vernissage: located on a steep hill off the main drag, it is the perfect perch point to see the marina and people watch over an aperitivo. Friendly service and good music.
Ristorante Levante: just around the corner from Vernissage, this restaurant does seafood well. The pastas are fantastic and the fried anchovies are divine. Service is welcoming and accomodating. I ate here twice in a weekend, it was that good.
Ristorante Beppe Achilli: This cute trattoria has traditional Ligurian food. The stuffed squid is magical, and the chocolate torte is airy, light and delicious. You can sit on the street or inside. Really nice and easy atmosphere.
Dress code: This area is posh and people are quite polished. Its not the place to walk around in shorts and a bikini top: you may feel out of place. I would recommend a nice dress for dinner or at least a polo shirt/button down for the men. There are many shops that have beautiful well selected items for the locals and well heeled tourists. During sale season, there are many boutiques to splurge on upmarket summer staples, notably linen.