Napoli: one bite at a time
Napoli is a city that has a bit of a rough reputation. But skipping this southern Italian city would be a pity because it is a wonderful mix of energy, culture and most importantly delicious food! I have listed a few things that I really enjoy in the city, and yes, there are many more…Napoli is more than just a pizzeria, a stereotype or a pass through for visiting Capri, Ischia and Procida. To visit the city fully it would take around four days.
Is it unsafe? No, but just be a cautious tourist. Like any big city, (even Rome!), be mindful of your surroundings, don’t wander to an unknown place at night and be careful with electronics, watches and fancy jewelry. The metro is functional and safe, and the taxi drivers, well, 50/50. Some are great, some less so (again, like any city…)
Here are some of my favorite places:
Pizzeria Sorbillo : This is the pizza to try. There is something magical about the crust. Even locals are in line for this place. Its worth the wait. There are also locations in Rome, Milano, New York…but this one is the original. And if you want something really special, there is one location that only does pizza fritta. It is delicious. The fried dough reminded me of Cholle Bhature in texture.
Di Matteo: I come here for the Frittatina. Its a fried ball of pasta and bechamel that is filled with meat and peas. It is every savory craving satiatied in one go.
Pigna Secca : this market has a bit of everything, but go to the pescheria and try a cone of the fried seafood. It is very fresh and delicious.
Zi Teresa: on the waterfront, this fancy restaurant is known for its amazing seafood. Service is usually good and with COVID, sometimes the hostesses can be a bit brusque, but the food quality is spot on. I recommend the fried calamaretti (tiny fried squid) or the zuppa di cozze (mussel soup) which has these magical fried bread pieces in the broth that absorb all of the amazing flavor.
Leopoldo: a bakery known for taralli, a savory ring shaped biscuit that is made with pig fat (it just works). There are several locations.
Castel St. Elmo : A full view of the whole city, the Bay of Naples and on a clear day, Vesuivius.
Museo San Severo : famous for the Cristo Velato, or the Veiled Christ, but all of the sculptures and paintings are quite impressive. (book online and avoid a queue)